theoldwolf: (Default)
When I was a kid (no pun intended... oh wait, maybe it was) growing up in New York, lamb chops were one of my favorite meals. It seems we had lamb at least once a week. My wife and I were talking about this the other day, and she echoed the sense I have nowadays that the only place you can find lamb is in a high-end restaurant, and all you get is this little bitty rack with the tiny ribs sticking up, at seven prices. Yeah, it's tasty, but sheesh...

Go on down to Smith's or your local grocery store, and if you're lucky there may be a couple of scrawny blade chops (read: garbage meat) hiding between the beef and pork, or a whole leg for about $45.00. But for all the sheep being raised in this country (5.6 million head in 2010, according to the National Agricultural Statistics Service), you'd think there would be a lot more on the shelves. Utah's fields appear to be crawling with sheep - our ranchers here call them "prairie maggots" - but where does all that fine meat go?


The American Lamb Board serves up delightful charts on the various lamb cuts and how to cook them, but I'll be dipped in bees if I've ever seen more than one or two of these in a supermarket at any one time.

Apparently this is due to a combination of factors.

  • The lamb market is in a bit of a crisis, and the ASIA (American Sheep Industry Association) is pushing a plan called 2+2+2=Rebuild, which asks that each producer increase the size of their operation by two ewes per operation or by two ewes per 100 by 2014, increase the average birthrate per ewe to two lambs per year and increase the harvested lamb crop rate by 2 percent.
  • Supply is, ultimately, driven by demand - and in this country, demand seems low. Down in the very dregs of demand, mutton - delicious and desirable in my book - is largely considered trash, suitable for consumption only by blighted minorities or Tolkienesque trolls. Add to this the fact that a good percentage of lamb available here comes from Down Under, either Australia or New Zealand where there are more lambs than people, and it's no surprise that the American lamb scene looks somewhat stressed.
  • There appears to be a regional difference as well. I have found indications that lamb is much more available and reasonably priced in places like New York, or other cities where there is a larger ethnic population who do not turn up their noses at this fine meat.
  • Lamb is not just food - it's a commodity, meaning that its price and availability are determined by a byzantine labyrinth of factors such corn prices, hay prices, weather conditions, harvest times, scientific analyses of fat marbling, yields, chemicals, and a host of others, including that one scrap of information that only a sheep farmer would know: sheep are the only animal in the world that want to die.


I have some dear friends that raise these woolly spawn of Hell, I've taken care of them myself, and I've seen all sides of them - from the cute and fluffy and affectionate, to the rampaging, stupid hundredweight bodies that hurl themselves against gates and tread on your feet (or head) with their very sharp hooves, to their absolute Satanic deviousness and ability to find every possible way to get sick or in trouble. But I'm just a city duffer with a love of the outdoors; from the good folks themselves, who do this year round, I have heard stories that would make your skin crawl. A good dog and an unlimited supply of sweet feed appear to be useful.

It seems that the only real answer will be to have a good freezer on hand, and find a local slaughterhouse that will sell me a whole or a half sheep. I'd die and go to heaven if I could score the offal as well, and be able to make my own haggis. But until then, I can only dream...
theoldwolf: (Default)
Recipe courtesy of Susan Spicer's cookbook, "Crescent City Cooking"

HERB-ROASTED LAMB LOIN WITH GOAT CHEESE AND ZINFANDEL SAUCE

Serves 4
Prep time: about 45 minutes

GOAT CHEESE FILLING

3 ounces fresh goat cheese, at room temperature
1/4 pound pancetta, diced and cooked until crisp
2 tablespoons diced marinated sun-dried tomatoes
1 teaspoon herbes de Provence or fresh herbs of your choice (such as rosemary, thyme, and/or basil)
1 garlic clove, minced

This filling can be made one day in advance. Using a fork, combine the goat cheese, pancetta, tomatoes, herbs, and garlic in a small bowl. Chill the mixture for a few minutes to allow the flavors to meld. When ready to use it, let the cheese mixture soften slightly at room temperature.

ZINFANDEL SAUCE

1 cup Zinfandel or full-flavored red wine
1 medium shallot, finely minced
2 sprigs fresh thyme or rosemary, or a combination
2 cups lamb stock (or substitute rich Chicken Stock [see book for recipe])
2 tablespoons butter, cut in four pieces
Salt and pepper

Place the wine, shallot, and herb in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the stock, bring to a boil, then lower the heat and let it simmer until reduced to 1/2 cup of liquid. Remove the herb sprigs.

Whisk in the butter, 1 piece at a time. The sauce should be glossy and slightly syrupy (but not so thick that it sticks your lips together; add a tablespoon or two of hot water if it gets too thick). Taste and season with salt and pepper.

LAMB

1 1/2 pounds boneless lamb loin, cut into 4 (6-ounce) portions
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
Goat Cheese Filling
Zinfandel Sauce

Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Sear the lamb on both sides for a minute or so, to brown, and then reduce the heat and cook each side 3–4 minutes longer. Transfer to a plate and let rest. You may serve the loins whole or sliced, with equal portions of the goat cheese mixture crumbled along the top and Zinfandel sauce spooned over it.

SPRING GREEN RISOTTO

Ingredients

* 1 1/2 tablespoons good olive oil
* 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
* 3 cups chopped leeks, white and light green parts (2 leeks)
* 1 cup chopped fennel
* 1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
* 2/3 cup dry white wine
* 4 to 5 cups simmering chicken stock, preferably homemade
* 1 pound thin asparagus
* 10 ounces frozen peas, defrosted, or 1 1/2 cups shelled fresh peas
* 1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest (2 lemons)
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
* 1/3 cup mascarpone cheese, preferably Italian
* 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus extra for serving
* 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives, plus extra for serving

Directions

Heat the olive oil and butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and fennel and saute for 5 to 7 minutes, until tender. Add the rice and stir for a minute to coat with the vegetables, oil, and butter. Add the white wine and simmer over low heat, stirring constantly, until most of the wine has been absorbed. Add the chicken stock, 2 ladles at a time, stirring almost constantly and waiting for the stock to be absorbed before adding more. This process should take 25 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the asparagus diagonally in 1 1/2-inch lengths and discard the tough ends. Blanch in boiling salted water for 4 to 5 minutes, until al dente. Drain and cool immediately in ice water. (If using fresh peas, blanch them in boiling water for a few minutes until the starchiness is gone.)

When the risotto has been cooking for 15 minutes, drain the asparagus and add it to the risotto with the peas, lemon zest, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Continue cooking and adding stock, stirring almost constantly, until the rice is tender but still firm.

Whisk the lemon juice and mascarpone together in a small bowl. When the risotto is done, turn off the heat and stir in the mascarpone mixture plus the Parmesan cheese and chives. Set aside, off the heat, for a few minutes, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve hot with a sprinkling of chives and more Parmesan cheese.


We used frozen asparagus, and it came out fine. The only thing I would do differently next time is add the peas and asparagus toward the end, so they were crispier.

ToniAnne made popovers to go with the meal, based loosely on a Yorkshire Pud recipe, and they were heavenly to sop up the Zinfandel sauce with, even though she said they were lousy as popovers.

The Old Wolf disagrees - this was one of the nicest Easter dinners I've ever had.

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